Overseam sewing-machine.



No. 732,959. PATENTED JULY 7, 1903. R. L. PLUMLEY.

OVERSEAM SEWING MACHINE.

, APPLICATION FILED JAN. 25, 1902.

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No. 732,959. PATBNTED JULY 7, 1903.

' 11. L. PLUMLEY.

OVERSEAM SEWING MACHINE.

' APPLIOATION nun JAN. 25', 1902.

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PATENTED JULY 7, 1903.

No. 732,959. R. L. PLUMLEY.

OVERSBAM SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED JAN. 25,1902.

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PATENTED JULY 7, 1903.

v R. L. PLUMLEY. OVERSEAM SEWING MACHINE.

APPI'IIOATION FILED JAN. 25, 1902.

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No. 732,959. PATENTED JULY 7, 19103.

R. L. PLUMLEY."

OVERSEAM SEWING MACHINE.

I APPLICATION FILED JAN. 25, 1902.

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OFFICE.

RAYMOND L. PLUMLEY, or WILMINGTON,DELAWARE, ASSIGNOR TO 'TRUMP' BROTHERS MACHINE COMPANY, OF WILMINGTON, DELA- WARE, A CORPORATION OF DELAWARE.

'OVERSEAM SEWING-MACHINE.

;.PECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 732,959, dated July 7, 1903.

1 Application filed January 25, 1902 Serial No. 91,156. (No modem To all whom, it may concern:

Be it known that I, RAYMOND L. PLUMLEY, a citizen of the United States of America, residing in Wilmington, in the county of Newcastle, State of Delaware, have invented certain new and usefullmprovements in Overseaming Sewing-Machines, of which the fol.- lowing is a true and exact description, reference beinghad totheaccompanyingdrawings, which form a part thereof.

My invention relates to what are known as overseaming sewing-machines, principally used for stitching buttonholes; and it has for its object, primarily, to provide a mechanism which will form and correctly place a double purl.

A further object of my invention is to provide mechanism which is adapted by a simple and expeditious change for making an overseam with either a single or a double purl.

The leading novel feature of my invention consistsin providing, in addition to the upper and lowerneedles of an overseaming-machine' operating with respect to each other in a wellunderstood manner, afinger which engages and holds the lower purl in correct position during the process of its formation and until the strains upon the threads tending to shift the position of the purl are practically at an end, said finger of course having actuating mechanism by which it is withdrawn from the .purl when it has performed its function and restored to operative position in proper time to engage the next succeeding portion of said purl.

Another important feature of my invention" consists in soconstructing thetake-up mechanism acting upon the threads as to adapt the machine when the purl-controlling finger above mentioned is removed from operative position to form an overseam with a single purl and providing the machine iii-addition with an additional take-up mechanism which is thrown out of operation when the purl-controlling finger is not in use.

Other features of my invention will be best understood as described in connection with the drawings in which they are illustrated, and of w hich- Figure 1 is a side elevation of an overseaming-machine embodying my invention shown partlyin central longitudinal section. Fig. 2 is a plan view of the said machine. Fig. 3 is a front view of the machine, partly in section, on the line 3 3 of Fig. 1. Fig. 4 is a front View of the supplemental take-up cam acting upon the upper thread. Fig. 5 is across-sectional view on the line 5 5 of Fig. 4. Fig. 6 is a detail view showing the purl-controlling finger and tension-regulating finger with the mech anism by which they are actuated. Fig. 6 is a similar view showing a device for holding the purl-controlling finger out of operation.

Figs. 7,8, 9, and 10 are perspective views illustrating in consecutive sequence the operation of the needles and purl controlling finger in the formation of the double purl. Fig. llis an elevation, on a larger scale, of the sewinghead, the. needles, and the fingers coacting with the needles. Fig. 12 is a front elevation, on a larger scale, of the crank and cam-wheel shown in Fig. 4, the view also showing the construction of the cam attached to the upper needle-bar and in which the crank-pin of the disk operates. Fig. 13 is a projection of the upper take-up cam; Fig. 14, a projection of l the bottom take-up cam; Fig. 15, a projection of the race-frame cam; Fig. 16, a projection of the cam directly acting upon the lower needle; Fig. 17, projections of the cam actuating the purl-controlling finger and the cam actuating the tension-regulating finger, and Fig. 18 is a diagram illustrating the relative position of the cam-rollers as mounted in the machine.

A indicates the bed-plate or table of the machine, which is of usual construction.

B and B are the upwardly and forwardly extending hollow arms, upon which is supported the head B in which moves the bar supporting the upper needle.

0 is the main driving-shaft of the machine, and O the driving-pulley. This pulley is best connected with the shaft through clutch mechanism-such, for instance, as is described in the Letters Patent No. 573,969, of December 29, 1896, to Frederick and Plumley.

' G is acamfastened to the shaft Oand working against the faces F and F of a yoke F, which connects through the rod F with a lever G, (see Fig. 3), attached to a rock-shaft 11,

having secured to its other end one or more levers H, to the ends of which are pivotally connected ratchet-actu atin g pawls H and H held in operative position by springs H as indicated in dotted lines in Fig. 3. The pawls H and H act upon the ratchet-wheels R and R which are secured on the short shaft R, to which shaft is also secured the gearwheel R, which engages and drives the gearwheel R, which in turn engages the rack R secured on the bottom of the movable table M, by which the work is shifted in the process of sewing.

Returning to the main shaft (J, 0 (best shown in Fig. 1) is a gear-wheel secured on said shaft, and in engagement with the gearwheel I, secured on a shaft 1, supported in a suitable bracket 1 said shaft having also secured to it a cam 1 which, by means of a cam-roller 1 actuates the lever 1 pivoted at 1 on an extension I of the frame 1 as best shown in Figs. 1 and 3. The lever I through a rod 1 connects with the slide K, to which the lower needle K is secured, said slide K moving in the curved raceway J formed in the race-frame, (indicated at J,) said race-frame being longitudinally movable on convenient guideways and having at its front end a lug J, through which it is connected with a slide J by means of a depending lug J on said slide, J indicating the guideway for the slide J and J a projection from said slide to which is connected the camroller J moving in the race-frame cam shown at C". It will thus be seen that, as in former machines, the motion imparted to the lower needle is derived from thetwo cams, (indicated at 1* and C As in other machines of this class, the feedtable M is provided with a circular perforation, in which fits the revolving disk, (indicated at L,) said disk having a central opening L, through which the head projects, and being also provided with a segmental rack on its lower side, which at a proper time is engaged with and actuated by the cam, (indicated at 0 said cam being secured, as shown, to the shaft 0. The head to which I have referred is indicated at N, N'indicating the supportingframe, from which the head extends, N (see Fig. 6) indicating the slot formed in the head through which the upper and lower needles work, N the recess formed atthe top of the head for the purl-controlling finger, (indicated at 0,) which tingeris secured to the upper end of a shaft 0', working in a bearing of the head, (indicated at N To the lower end of the shaft 0 is attached the'forked lever (indicated at 0 Figs.-6 and (5) which is engaged by the end of the lever 0 pivoted at O and having an arm 0 which is'engaged and actuated by the cam O on the shaft 0.

0 Fig. 6, indicatesaspring which is adapted to engage and hold the forked lever 0 out of operative connection with the lever-arm 0 when it is not desired to use the purl-0on trolling finger. P is a finger adapted to be operated at proper times to extend through the slot N and be retracted therefrom. It is actuated through a lever-arm P, pivoted at P and having a cam-roller frame P engaged by the cam C on the shaft 0. This is an old device, but is new in combination with the finger O in my present machine. 0 is another cam secured on the shaft 0 and acting through the cam-roller arm Q, pivoted at Q on the lower take-up lever Q qand q indicate thread-guides, and Q a tension device through which the lower thread (indicated at W) passes to the take-up lever and the lower needle. I

Through the gear-wheel D, secured on the shaft 0, and the train of gears, (indicated at D, D and D theshaft E is driven, said shaft having secured to it the cam (indicated at E) and the cam -disk (indicated at E said, cam-disk being also a crank-disk and having projecting from its front end the crank-pin E The cam-groove in the disk E is, as shown, indicated at the point E (See Figs. t and 5.)

S indicates the vertically-reciprocating needle-bar, which is properly guided in the head B and has secured to it a transversely-extending cam, (indicated at S,) which is engaged by the crank-pin E S indicates the upper end of needle, secured in the lower end of the bar S.

T indicates the cam-roller arm of a lever engaged with the cam E and pivoted at T, this lever connecting with the upper take-up lever, (indicated at T 15 and 25 indicating threadguides for the upper thread, (indicated at V,) and t 25 additional threadguides secured close together and through which the thread passes on its way to the take-up lever T from the tension device, (indicated at T U is a bent lever-arm having a perforated end U, which extends between the threadguides 15 25, so as to hold the thread normally in the bent position indicated in Fig. 3. The lever U is pivoted at U and has attached to it a lever-arm U the end of which projects into the cam-path E of the disk E The operation of the machine in overseaming is well indicated in Figs. 7 to 10, inclusive, said figures indicating the character of the work effected. When the purl-controlling finger O is in operative relation to the machine and the supplemental tension-lever U also in operation upon the upper thread, the upper needle S passes downward through the goods, throwing off on the under side thereof a loop, such as is indicated at V, (see Fig. 10,) the finger P being preferably used and actuated to pass through this loop, as shown in this figure. The finger O is at this stage of the operation of the machine also in operative position, the lower needle K is moved upward to pass through the loop V p and in front of the finger P, and the'upper IIO needle S is retracted as shown in Fi 7 drawing the loop V up to a position regulated by its engagement by the finger P and which the upper needle S passes on its next Fig. 10.

downward movement, the lower needle K being retracted, as shown in Fig. 9, and the needlesthen again passing to the position and performing the functions indicated in The purl-controlling finger remains in its operative position until the parts are practicallyin the position indicated in Fig. 9, when it is retracted, as indicated in dotted lines, and immediately restored to operative. position, as shown in Fig. 10, while the finger P, coming into operation, as indicated in Fig. 10, is retracted when the parts are between the positions indicated in Fig. 7 andyFig. 8.

In addition to the loops heretofore referred tonamely, those indicated at V and VV-- the upper thread is by its engagement with the lower thread at the points V V drawn into another loop, (indicated at V the interengaged portions of thisloop with the lower thread (indicated at W and forming what is known as the upper purl of the over-- seam; also, in addition to the loops W the engagement of the upper thread with the lower thread at the points V and W drawsthe said lower'threadinto loops W the said interengagement forming the lower purl of the overseam. The operation of the purlcontrolling finger O is primarily, through its engagementwiththe loop W to prevent this loop where it engages-the loop V frornbeQ ing drawn upward beyond the lower edges of the goods. Bypreference and as shown the finger also engages and holds the loop V, and it will be readily understood that, by preventing the lower purl from being drawn up in front of the seam, the finger 0 also acts to hold and regulate the position of the up per purl, and it will also be obvious that the finger P, acting as above described and affording during the time of its operation a positive stop for thetaking up of the loop V,

coacts with the fingerO in the accurate disposition of. the lower purl, of which this loop is a component member.

position, the pointedend of the finger 0 extends across the slot N in the head N and lies close to the lower edge of the goods, and it remains in this position until the lower needle has passed through the loop of the upper thread (see Fig. 10) and has moved upward past theedge of the goods to deliver its thread-loop to the upper needle and has returned to the position shown in Fig. 9, leaving the stitch formation around the pointed end of the finger, thus directly holding the lower purl substantially in the position on the lower edgeof the goods it is intended to occupy in the finished goods until the strains When in operative.

which would tend to displace said purl are practically at an end and indirectly holding the upper purl in correct position. Having accomplished these functions, the finger Inoves'out of the stitch formation to the position indicated in dotted lines in Fig. 9, allowing thetake-up levers T and U to complete the tension on the threads. The functions of the auxiliary take-up lever U are, in the first place, by moving outward, so as to relax the thread between the guides t 25, to supply enough thread to retard the action of the regular upper take-up lever T on the thread, which would otherwise tend to draw the lower purl above the lower edge and the upper purl back from the upper edge, and, in the second place, said take-up U acts in moving in between the guides t t to draw 0E enough thread to allow the upper purl to be drawn and formed along the upperedge of the goods, and its said movement is timed so that it finishes in unison with the movement of the take-up lever T and immediately after the finger O has moved out of the stitch formation, as shown in dotted lines in Fig. 9.

Where it is desired to use my machine for making single-purl overseams, Imove the finger O backward out of operative posit-ion and out of engagement with the lever 0 This can be readily effected by providing a little cam-groove c merging into the cam 0 as shown in, Fig. 17, and through which the arm 0 of the lever O is moved to disconnectO from forked lever 0 0 now being disconnected from 0 it is held in its disconnected or inoperative position by engagement with spring 0 The operation of throwing the purl-controlling finger O into-or out of operative position by means of connecting or disconnecting levers O and O is performed manually. The purl-controlling finger being thus out of operation, I also disengage the upper thread from the lever-arm U, leaving it under the sole control of the cam E" and its connected mechanism. The disengagement of the finger and the change in the take-up devices thus effectresults in the practicable elimination of the loop V whichis drawn back practically to the needle-holes of the upper needle, disappearing as a purl on the edge of the goods.

It will of course be obvious thatwhere my machine is to be used only for makingoverseams with a double purl, it is not necessary that asupplemental take-up cam and mechanism should be provided,as the camE. could be given the proper shape to regulate the take-up for the double purl.

Having now described my invention, what I claim as new, and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is-

1. In an overseaming sewing-machine the combination of the needless and K having mechanism for actuating them as described with a finger adapted when in operative position to engage and hold down the "loop formedby the lower thread onthe under side IIO and close'to the edge of the goods and mech-.

anism for moving said finger to and from its said operative position whereby said finger is held in operative position until the engaged portion of the said loop thrown off by the lower needle is drawn practically to its permanent position on the fabric and then moved to disengage said loop and returned to operative position to engage the succeeding loop.

2. In an overseaming sewing-machine the combination of the needles S and K having mechanism for actuating them as described with a finger adapted when in operative position to engage and hold down the loop formed by the lower thread on the under side of the goods and to pass over theloop formed by the upper thread on the said under side of the goods said finger engaging and holding said loops close to the edge of the goods and mechanism for moving said finger to and from its said operative position, whereby said finger is held in operative position until the engaged portion of the said loops thrown 0E by the needles are drawn practically to their permanent positions on the fabric and then moved to disengage said loops and returned to operative position to engage the succeeding loops. I

3. In an overseaming sewing-machine the combination of the needles S and K having mechanism for actuating them as described with an oscillating finger adapted when in operative position to engage and hold down the loop formed by the lower thread on the under side and close to the edge of the goods,- and mechanism for moving said finger to and from its said operative position whereby said finger is heldin operative position until the engaged portion of the said loop thrown ofi by the lower needle is drawn practically to its permanent position on the fabric and then moved to disengage said loop and returned to operative position to engage the succeeding loop.

4. In an overseaming sewing-machine, the combination of the needles S and K having mechanism for actuating them as described with an oscillating finger adapted when in operative position to engage and hold down the loop formed by the lower thread on the under side of the goods and to pass over the loop-formed by the upper thread on the said under side of the goods, said finger engaging and holding said loops close to the edge of the goods and mechanism for moving said finger to and from its said operative position whereby said finger is held in operative position until the engaged portion of the said loops thrown 0% by the needles are drawn practically to their permanent positions on the fabric, and then moved to disengage said loops and returned to operative position to engage the succeeding loops.

5. In an overseaming sewing-machine, the combination of the needles S and K having mechanism for actuating them as described tolform an overseam with a double purl, with a purl-engaging finger provided with means 7 whereby it is adapted when in operative position to engage the lower purl as it is formed and hold it in the desired position until the threads have been drawn to their permanent position on the fabric, and mechanism for disengaging said finger from the finished part of the purl and restoring it to operative position to engage the succeeding portion of said purl as described.

6. In an overseaming sewing-machine, the combination of the needles S and K having mechanism for actuating them as described to form an overseam with a double purl, with a finger P having actuating mechanism whereby it is thrust forward to engage the loop thrown olf by the upper needle on the under side of the goods and retracted to disengage said loop after the lower needle has entered it on its upward movement, a purl-engaging finger provided with means whereby it is adapted when in operative position to engage the lower purl as it is formed and hold it in the desired position until the threads have been drawn to their permanent positions on the fabric, and mechanism for disengaging said finger from the finished part ofthe purl and restoring it to operative position to engage the succeeding portion of said purl as described.

7. In an overseaming sewing-machine having the needles S and K and mechanism for actuating said needles as described to form the overseam, the combination therewith of take-up mechanism for the threads of the two needles adapted in normal operation to efiect the formation of a seam having a single purl, a supplemental take-up mechanism adapted when in operation to facilitate the formation of the seam with a double purl, a finger adapted when in operative position to engage and hold the lower purl in position on the bottom edge of the goods, mechanism for withdrawing said finger and restoring it to operative position as described, and mechanism for holding said finger out of operation when desired.

RAYMOND L. PLUMLEY.

. Witnesses:

Gno. R. HOFFEOKER, J OHN J. MoGovERN, THOMAS J. BOWEN, J r..

'IOO 

